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I would recommend picking up a Crutchfield magazine. Then read all it has
to say about car audio, speakers, amps, etc. This will give you some basic
knowledge to start with, not to mention that it will give you the available
dimensions for the factory speakers and radio. As for speakers, there are
no "best" speakers, but there are good quality speakers which will
drastically enhance your cars audio system. For a low budget audio system
with a sub or subs, I would recommend a picking up a small four channel
amplifier, like a Kenwood or Sony. They make some 30 to 40 watt per
channel, 4-channel amplifiers that are real nice. Make sure it includes a
built-in crossover to filter high frequencies (called a low-pass filter)
from your subs. Don't let anyone discourage you about the numbers either,
30 or 40 watts (rms) per channel is more than enough to ensure clean,
quality, loud music. Were not talking competition here. Something you can
tuck away in your head is that to double the loudness of a speaker the
amplifier power must be increased 10 fold In other words a 100 watts
amplifier is twice as loud as a 10 watt amplifier for a given speaker. With
this amp you can use two channels to drive your front and rear speakers,
then use the other two channels to drive your sub (in bridged mode) or subs
(in stereo mode). The one disadvantage is the inability to toggle the
"level from the front to the rear, but this set up will also allow you to
easily upgrade later, by simply buying a high power two channel amp, this
amp will then power your sub(s), while the 4-channel amp powers your front
and rear speaker. Of coarse you will want to upgrade your factory speakers.
My personal preference is Polk Audio or Infinity, but there are many others,
as I am sure you know. As for cost, exspect to pay at least $200 for the
amp, around $200 to replace the factories, then another $150 for a pair of
8" or 10", $200-$400 or a head unit. If you decide to used the factory head
unit, you will need to purchase "hi-lo converters". The convert the
amplified signal from your head unit to a low level signal which you can
feed your amp. Note the some amps have this built in, like Kenwood. I
believe its termed "high level inputs". You loose quality when you "convert
high level signals to low level signals, but you save the expense of a new
head unit. You will also need an enclosure for your sub(s), exspect another
$100, unless you make it yourself. I dont know your music preference, but
if you are looking for accurate, quality bass, stick with a seal enclosure
or perhaps a ported enclosure tuned to around 60 Hz. If you are simply
looking for loud booming bass, go with a "band-pass" type enclosure. This
is the most effiecient enclosure design, or the most "boom for the power".
Do not be afraid to drive one sub either, particularly with a "band-pass"
enclosure. You can simply bridge two of the amp channels and you will then
be "feeding" that one sub around a 100 watts. It will jam, I assure you. I
no longer have a "system" in my Probe, but my old system is in my wife's
car, which includes a 7 year old Alpine 6 channel amp (has been in three
different cars so far). With 30 watts X 4 and 60 watts X 2, the Polk
components up front and Polk co-axials in the rear are driven with the 30
watt channels, and to the remaining two channels are bridge to power a 10"
Soundstream Reference Series Sub with 150 watts. This system is more than
enough to piss off the neighbors is need be. 8-)
Enjoy,
Bryan Pendleton
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