> The actuator broke when i went to start the van the other day. - What is an 'actuator'? - Clive (puzzled)

Right. That thing broke on my Aero. I had a new one put in by a local electrical-auto shop, it cost the equivalent of $45 including labour and the job was about an hour, so I had assumed it wasn't too difficult. Clive

It's a toughy to do especially if the vehicle has tilt steering. The shop i went to wants at least 2 hours and that's not including parts to finish what i have started. (approx. $70 per hour) I can finish it but i do need to know a couple basic things before i even start. Take care Robert

what year aerostar is it? have you been able to remove the lock cylinder? And now "just" need to remove the housing it goes into? My haynes manual gives no info other than lock cylinder removal, for the housing and turn signal assembly it says "refer to dealer" because you have to remove the column. From a guess based on replacing this part in an escort- You have to lower the steering column to get access to the "bolts" you need to remove. Then all the surrounding plastic and the combination turn signal/wiper switch. Now you should see this metal housing part- it looks like it's mounted on top of the steering column tube like a saddle, with two bolts coming down from the top. These bolts that hold the lock assembly housing in place- They had break-off heads. All that will now show are two round bumps. I removed the ones on my escort by using a 4" cut-off grinder to cut straight slots into the tops of these bumps. Then i used a large straight screwdriver to remove the bolts. The replacement part had two new break off bolts, the heads snapped off as designed when tightened. On the escort, what had broken was a small flat pin at the left end of the housing. It was the part that actually sticks into the ignition switch.

If on a budget or not ready to put it in the shop quite yet- and if this broke in the same manner as my wife's escort-the duct tape way to fix this: assumption- The key still works, and turns the lock. So the steering wheel lock works. But the tang on the left is broken, and the actual electric ignition switch isn't being turned so the car won't start. Take the actual ignition switch off the left hand end of this housing. Couple of phillips screws. Leave it sticking out of the plastic surround so you can reach this switch. so now, you turn the turn the key to unlock the wheel. and turn the switch with a screwdriver to start the car... worked fine here while i waited for the part to get shipped in. The wife wasn't too keen on my cleverness, but hey, the car started and ran. > Actually, I have a Windstar but your info is helpful. I think I've located > the Ford part and am not going to attempt this myself -- you're a braver > person than I! Thanks again. Marie

Actually it's a 95 Windstar. The lock cyclinder is shot and will be replaced. I already bought one. For those that have a windstar the lock cyclinder is dreadfully easy to take out. Put the key in and move it to the run position. Underneath the on the plastic trim thingy you will see a hole that does not have a screw in it. Take a 1/8 inch punch and push up into this hole. It will push the pin in that holds the cyclinder. Should be able to pull it out from there but you might have to giggle it abit first. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THIS UNHOOK THE BATTERY FIRST. I did find it easier to remove the screws on the bottom trim piece so that you can see that you have the punch in the right spot. Take care Robert

Well what i have done so far is this. Something broke in the two pieces that activate the ignition switch. I have removed all the parts i needed to so that i could unscrew the ignition switch from the steering column. It is a slide switch so i can just move it by hand to start it and shut it off etc. The problem is it looks ugly (ok so do i) and it would be rather easy to steal. I do have one of those antitheft bar things for the steering wheel but i'm sure if the van was stolen my insurance company would NOT be amused by the setup i have. However that said if it gets stolen i don't have to fix it lol. Not so much brave as good with my hands but also cautious. So before i attempt it i want to find out as much information as i can. I'm also told that the Ford taurus/sable used the same tilt steering assembly so if you happen to have any information in your manual that you could scan and send me it would be appreciated. Take care Robert

I'm willing to bet that's what's broke on my van. Used to start with the key, then got iffy, then stopped altogether. I've been shorting the solenoid since November, kinda sucks in cold weather to have to go through the same routine: unlock door get in the van click the ignition on look around under the seat to see where my screwdriver rolled last pop the hood get out shut the door walk up front open the hood wedge the screwdriver in just right so it doesn't spark too much crank it til it starts then pull the screwdriver clear shut the hood open the door get back in close the door drop screwdriver on floor in between seats put on seatbelt pray it doesn't stall when I give it gas Just think about it. I start the van 20-30 times a day using this procedure, I do deliveries and can't always leave it running when I get out. Alan Moore Couriers On Demand Dallas, TX 1991 Ford Aerostar XLT extended van, blue/blue, 3.0L/A4LD, 154K

If that's the routine and you don't want to spend the money to fix it why don't you just go down to the local rice modders parts shop and get one of those big red starter buttons for your dashboard? Pretty much wires the same way except the relay and you never have to open the hood to start again. Probably costs about $20 and an hour install time. >