When I turn it on,it tries to control temp, all air doors work - ie defrost,center vents, etc. main Blower does not come on. Only way to get it on is to turn speed wheel to max. I cannot get any speed but max. Figured resistor pack went, but can't find it - not in usual places. Does autotemp have one? Where can I see a wiring diagram? I traced and checked everything I could see under hood, all grounds, all fuses related to system. Released glove box - no block on air box. Wanted to pull control unit in dash, but could not figure out how to get it out. Tan trim ring holds it in.

Am new member but thought I'd chime in. Am working same problem on 1996 but not with Autotemp. Haynes manual discusses but doesn't make exceptions for autotemp. My resistor package is low and below fan motor on side toward engine/hard to see. Moving cruise control and washer/coolant reservoirs makes access easier. Hope this helps. Tom

Don't forget that if you want something more in depth than a Haynes manual you can get a factory manual at www.helminc.com >

Hi, Tom - First place I looked. On EB autotemp there is a blower motor power relay there!

Thanks for thought, Craig - hoping not to spend money for that. George

They are expensive, but if you are going to have a vehicle for more than a couple of years and are going to be working on it, they are well worth the money. I generally keep vehicles about 10 years. I did find a factory manual on CD on eBay for cheap. >

So do I, Craig. 10 years is up! Have not needed manual yet, looking for a newer model, but I want everything working perfect when I sell this one. - In fordexplorer@yahoogroups.com,

So do I, Craig. 10 years is up! Have not needed manual yet, looking for a newer model, but I want everything working perfect when I sell this one. - In fordexplorer@yahoogroups.com,

And I have used every manual I bought. I guess you must be better than I at finding things on the net, like torque specs for every nut or bolt you remove and reinstall. This past weekend I went over to a friends house to help him change the serpentine belt on his 4runner, when I got there he was changing the rear brake pads on his wifes Audi A4, he was with all the force he could come up with trying to force the pistons back into the calipers like you do on most cars. I said check the manual for the the proper procedure, he said "no manual who needs it" well as it turns out the pistons require very light pressure while being TURNED in, after breaking one caliper with too much force and using adjustable pliers around the edge of the other one to turn it in, he screwed up both calipers, those calipers cost him a lot more than a manual would. WE never did get to the belt. I guess from working on aircraft I have learned to follow the book and use specs, ALWAYS. >

Wall, been workin on cars durn near 45 years-ranging from race cars (Lotus) to Detroit iron and them foreign jobies. Got lots of manuals dating back to the '60's, metric and english torque wrenches in various ranges. With aluminum engines, mag wheels and alloy suspension components, the days of "run 'er up 'till you feel the bolt stretch" are long gone. I use top quality lubricants/filters, etc. and am out of a car by 125,000 miles, but as you know, a properly cared for Explorer engine will go over double that without internal repair.(years ago, you figured at least a valve job at 50,000) Brakes - now that rotors are separate from the hubs, they are inexpensive. Rather than machine, I get new. Calipers - haven't rebuilt in over 10 years. Name brand aftermarket rebuilds are excellent, and so inexpensive, can buy for barely more than the cost of the rebuild kit. When I replace pads, I buy the hardware kit. Has new guides, bolts, the acordian boots & special lube. Instructions have torques. If I need a torque, the guy selling me the parts gets it for me. The occasional question is usually quickly answered by this or the Explorer/Expedition group. What I really need is a wiring schematic of the autotemp unit, so I can figure out how the fan is controlled. Vehicle is old enough that dealership mechanics don't keep manual in rack. George > And I have used every manual I bought. > > Ilike torque > specs for every nut or bolt you remove and reinstall. > > > manual who needs it" well as it turns out the pistons require very light > pressure while being TURNED in, after breaking one caliper with too much > force and using adjustable pliers around the edge of the other one to > >