I have a 95 T-Bird with a 4.6L and was getting my parts list together to do a break job, and I thought I would go ahead and change out the bearings and seals. The only price people have quoted me is for a hub assembly??? and its not cheap. I just had tires put on and that didn't get rid of the vibration in the front end, thats why I thought about the bearings or a warped rotor might be the cause. If anyone has any good advice key me in. Thanks, Mark...

Mark, I have a 97 T-Bird. Had to have the rotors resurfaced once. When I hit the brakes, I was getting a shimmy. Not while driving, just when I lightly applied the brakes. Hope this helps. Bruce

If your using after-market wheels you may want to try a set of hub rings. I know that has worked for some people. I have the same problem right now and I let you know if the hub ring thing works for me.

Do you get vibration when you drive or when you slow down? If it is more of a shudder when you brake for a stoplight, it might be your cv joints. i had the same problem. i got a 93 3.8 now and th uv joints just went out too. it's the same problem i had before. i could be wrong though cause i'm not a pro. just personal experience. later

I had the same problem when I bought my 95' three years ago. It was my rotors. I was told by several people that the rotors on these cars from the factory are some sort of "composite" rotors. My honest brake man told me that if he turned them the would work for a little while, then go back to the same problem. What you need to do is replace your rotors. I would strongly recomend finding some cross drilled rotors to help disipate the heat. If you cannot find any cross drilled rotors, then some aftermarket replacements will do. Thats all I bought a couple years ago, and they are doing fine. I wish now I had some bigger rotors and four piston calipers tho fit behind my 17s! Hope that works for you. Later- Evan

where is the vibration? I have a bad vibration at speeds over 65 and it started after i have my front tires replaced. I have a 97 merc. cougar 30th anniv. with the 16" lincoln rims and the sport suspenshion and braking. I hope it isnt the rotors. mine are $80 each I just replaced them and the pads, thats why i know

anybody found a way to fix the burnt out bulbs in my trunk lids fights on my 94 bird, other than paying 175:00 from the dealer,for each side, from the dealer !!!! almost non existant in junk yards

The cross drilled holes draw in air and circulate it through the rotor, helping it to cool faster. The holes arent huge either, they are small, and perfectly flush so I dont know how it will eat pads faster. Everything I have read says that they help stop the car better, and dont get as hot. When I checked, they werent that much more than regular rotors, and now I wish I had bought them.

The drilling creates stress risers (which lead to the cracking) and decreases the amount of brake rotor which can absorb the heat of braking, meaning that the brake temperature increases faster.

I have 2 birds, a 92 with the KVR 4 piston upgrade and drilled rotors, and a 90 with stock rotors. the difference is like night and day. the 92 is drive 5 times the distance as the 90 ane the 90, unless it has new rotors and the rears adjusted tight will warp the fronts in no time. The KVR kit is a worthwile investment and I have seen no excess pad wear or funny things happening with the rotors. Grant; "Balancing and Rotating the Moustache"

Cross drilled rotors are lighter, offer good bite and breath more. You may hear of these designs allowing break gasses to escape, but with modern brake pads just don't generate enough gasses to effect anything. There are also problems with each design. Cross-drilled rotors don't have as much mass as the others (so less heat absorbing). They also have the possibility of cracking. Slotted have a little less mass and have a possibility for cracking, and OEM just don't have slots or holes! All nascar vehicles run slotted rotors.

> ane the 90, unless it has new rotors and the > rears adjusted tight will warp the fronts in no time. The KVR kit is a > worthwile investment and I have seen no excess pad wear or funny things > happening with the rotors. Torque your lug nuts, in a star pattern to between 90 and 100ft/lbs, It is wise to check them a week afterwards to make sure they haven't loosened. I have 40,000 on my OEM style rotors without a single sign of warpage. The extra pistoned calipers however would definately decrease braking distance.

been there, done that