Does any one have the booklet for a ford F-350 4X4 superduty crew cab lariet? I need to know how to take off the ball joints in the front! If I dont find out soon its gona cost me about 800 to get them replaced, I need picture and diagrams please, or if you can direct me to some one who would be able to help! I need know as soon as possible! Thank you Blue Steel

I Just did mine the front lock out hubs come off easy with the snap ring there there is a snap ring on the axle behind the hub with some spacers take those out . Remove the caliper and  the rotor. Now you can knock out the axle, if you look you will see a big seal you will need to hit on the yoke to knock it out. Try not to hit the seal they are about $35 with a discount from Ford and a pain to put on. Then on the back side of the backing plate there 4 nuts that are locktighted on so use a breaker bar. With the 4 nuts off you can get the hub off.The rest is the same as any other one.

Another fun part is finding the ball joints, some parts place's don't even list them. I paid 115 per side for mine I don't know what Ford charges. I got mine from NAPA.( Moog makes them) As long as you have the axles out you should change the U-Joints to get ones with grease fittings. 

 Good Luck

I paidabout  $40 for upper and $50 for lower, the lower is moog from the ford dealer. Ive done my 92 bronco about 10 times (my sister drives it and doesnt really take care of it!). I've had the caliper and rotor off many time. I just looked at the seal and its already gone, I got 2 new ones from ford, about $20 apeice for me, my dad works for ford ands gets rather big discounts on this stuff. Im going to start tommorrow morning, thank you alot! This will save me a ton of money, now I can afford new tires for it :-) . Thanks a ton. Hey if you ever need parts for 70s broncos, 80s crown victoria, 80s ford pick-up, and 70s ranchero just ask, I have a bunch of parts to sell, I'll give ya a good price if you need any of the parts.
Blue Steel

The S/D's are an animal all by them self's ask your dad. some

blue

Hey there Glen, you got yourself a cool ass car! If you have to deal with the snow...member to always have plenty of kitty litter in the back, for weight and in case you get stuck and need traction. Those cars have so many balls. I've heard that the manuals get stuck on speed bumps easily in the winter too..:) Congratulations on getting your dream car. Be careful drivin that monster. Carolyn 96 SE >

damn are you lucky glen......toyota supra's kick ass!! have fun with it, just don't forget us : ) jay 93 se

did you try a tune up ( plugs, wires, etc)? maybe you have clogged injectors...a bottle of fuel injector cleaner would help if thats the case.  depending on where you get gas, ive had friends with this problem, you may have water in your gas tank and it would cause it to run rough / shut off.  I had a very bad problem with my 93 Pse wanting to idle so low that it almost shut off, around 250 or so.  It also fouled out alot and missed whenever I'd stopm the pedal or even get on it about 3/4 throttle quick.  I found out, after it was too late, that my head gasket is/was shot.  You have a pretty big aray of things to check out.....try the minor stuff first.  As you said, could be the fuel pump/feul filter too.  Basic maintence will always help your car run stronger...and check out the small stuff before you get into the bigger things.
Jeremy

Check out yer PCV valve.  On top of the valve cover, pop it out and check if its still rattling when u shake it.  Mine was stalling a lot and my PCV was almost full of oil for some wierd reason (not overfull).  Shook it out and stalling stopped. 
Also clean yer MAF sensor real good with some carb/choke cleaner, then let it dry out.  Seemed to melp me out and no stalling since.
Ted

did the tune already replaced plugs and plug wires, replaced belts. no code shows on the computer. except for the occasional low rpm idle. i put slick 50 once-a-year fuel system treatment a month ago but was planning to try another brand at my next fill-up. as i was writing this, i never had the problem for two days already but it keeps me worried. i was really planning on keeping this car for a long time since its still in pristine condition except for the problem mentioned. will try to replace fuel filter when i have the time. thanx for the info! its nice to know that there are a lot of probers still.

My suggestion would be the most likely reason that it stalls. Seems to happen quite a bit with our cars with a few miles on em. IAC (idle air control) on top of the throttle body. Clean it with carb/choke cleaner, you do have to take it apart, there are detailed instructions at www.probetalk.com (do a search in the forums, should be in the 2.0 archive.) hope that helps. it should -Mike

http://www.geocities.com/adamk01452/IAC_Clean.html
Yes, clean yer IAC.  Forgot about that.  Thats the one I went by.  Works great.

It sounds to me like a busted or loose accessory/alternator belt. Everything you describe sound like what happened when the belt busted on my car. Either that or the water pump. MULTI 97GL (RIP)

It sounds like the water pump wore out or it might be a head gasket on the engine. Look at the dip stick on the oil and look at the cap to see and foam or anything other that oil. Look in the rad and see if it is full( if it's emply then go to autozone and rent a rad pressure tester and find out where the leak is). Gary >

Could be too many ammenities in that poor beast. Try gutting the ac unit and carpeting. Often this brings... Alright I'm joking. First try the usual, fuses, wires, connections, etc. If all that fails check the ?motor? that operates the lumbar support. I know in my other car which will go unidentified a connection came loose causing me to gut half the interior before I found it.

I checked it,some voltage going to the seat opposed to the passenger bucket seat has 12 volts