i heard that you can cut the eibach lowering spring low enough the get the look you are trying to get, is that a good idea? would cutting the lowering srping effect the ride and the handling of the car?<br><br>thanks

cutting springs is the stupidest thing you could ever do if you have to drop it more spend the $15 a set and buy spring clamps they compress the spring one rung and give you an extra 3/4" drop on eibachs but it affects ride quality they get stiff as hell. if you want to do it right have springs made they are about twice as much but will give you the drop you want. I personaly would not drop it any more than factory eibachs without a bag kit so you can realistically drive it around town most sc's with ground effects packages rub there front air dams with eibachs on speed bumps and inclined driveways an lx is better in that aspect but if you plan on adding a body kit stay with eiback standard height don't shackle them. you will never cut the springs perfectley and you car will sit weird on all four corners plus you may loose one if you ever fully exetend your suspention so it can come loose. i.e on a lift or cahnging a tire on jack stands.<br><br>LAter<br>Dwayne

I used Eibach springs and the dif in handling is 100% although they didn't lower it as much as I would have liked. If you just want it slamed and don't care about ride quality or performance just have the stock springs cut. If you want the best of both worlds get the ground control kit. Kevin 95 Probe SE 5spd Pilot SS Muffler, Bosal Tip, Test Pipe - Nology Wires & Plugs - K & N Cone Filter, Cutom Cold Air - Eibach Springs probesvt@... http://www.crosswinds.net/~probesvt/

The lowering kits for the V-8 and V-6 should work fine for your car. I would stick with the V-6, though, since the V-8 is a much heavier engine, and its kit would give you too stiff a ride. There are lots of go-fast parts for the 2.3 Keep in mind that in street legal form this engine will never make as much power as a V-8. Try Racer Walsh or Eslinger. www.racerwalsh.com www.esslingerracing.com

Just curious if I kept it street legal. What would be the approx. max horsepower I could get out of it. Completely open to some suggestions. I do not want to run NOS.

The lowering kits for the V-8 and V-6 should work fine for your car. I would stick with the V-6, though, since the V-8 is a much heavier engine, and its kit would give you too stiff a ride. There are lots of go-fast parts for the 2.3 Keep in mind that in street legal form this engine will never make as much power as a V-8. Try Racer Walsh or Eslinger. www.racerwalsh.com www.esslingerracing.com

Just curious if I kept it street legal. What would be the approx. max horsepower I could get out of it. Completely open to some suggestions. I do not want to run NOS.

It will depend on a bunch of factors that your original post failed to include...<br><br>Lets start with how many miles your LX has?<br><br>From there you'll need to consider what kind of shape your bushings and struts are in (ie..it may be wise to replace them at the same time).<br><br>And..what about a set of camber/caster plates? Fox3's are famous for eating the insides off the front tires.<br><br>Plus, another 'red light' that I can see is: Are you sure you just want to lower your front end and neglect the rear end?<br><br><br>None-the-less..I just added a set of FMS "C" springs, M3075A lower control arms, and a few other goodies to my '91 GT. At present..I am considering going back in and knocking part of a coil off the rear as it sets up a little higher back there now.<br><br>FWIW..the M5300C springs come as a set of four (4) and you can currently get them from GEFRacing (<a href=http://www.gefracing.com/ford.htm target=new>http://www.gefracing.com/ford.htm</a>) for about $110 + s/h. Ask for Sam..otherwise it will be a cluster

I'm surprised that 650# springs impress you as much as you say. I'm sure they're an improvement, but I had 850# springs on mine and thought it was nice, but I decided to switch to a coil-over front with 475# springs, which are the equivalent of about 1000# springs. Could go stiffer, but manhole covers make my car shudder at this point. But on a dry road I can take 270 degree exit ramps at about 50 or so, others faster. I could probably push it a little more, but I don't want to put my car into the rail. <br><br><br>And don't ever cut your springs, do it properly or you end up changing the spring rate to an unknown value. Get shorter springs or get adjustable lower control arms.

I'm not yet sure I would classify my limited description of the "C" springs as being 'impressed'. I noted that I knew they were not a panacea for all..just to avoid that impression. <br><br>Basically, I just wanted Mr. zoop7 to have a point of reference to work outward from. Hopefully, it didn't appear that I was trying to "sell" him on a set as I realize that some people want the car lower, but do not want a rough ride. I was well aware of what the results would be beforehand and..imho..so far..they have performed as advertised. (Plus, they were the cheapest route I could find..if that is a consideration for anyone else.) &lt;g&gt;<br><br>None-the-less, the combination of new stuff applied to my 138k '91 GT is a vast improvement to the old tired OEM stuff that was on the car. The car is now a lot more fun to drive..even though I kinda wish my new rack had a different ratio and was less 'twitchy'.<br><br><br>As for cutting the springs..FMS actually included instructions to facilitate just such an act! I wanted to post you a link to a page that discussed the technical aspects of cutting springs in general. However, as of right now..I have been unable to locate it. I believe I originally found it off a discussion on the Corral, so hopefully that part of the archives still exists. I also once read a good article which described the dynamics of clipping coils off a CV carb spring on a Harley. Yes..not exactly apples to apples, but for the sake of an argument..a spring is a spring and shortening either has the same effect.<br><br>One thing that should be noted is that a person should not use a cutting torch as the heat will change the temper of the steel. Then you will really have unknown values...

Though any simple change to improve the suspension of a fox will make the car feel better, you should try H&R springs, they're progressive and ride like stock on a straightaway. I had bought mine from maximum motorsports for like $250 or something. They would solve any ridability problems (but I just had to get a griggs setup).<br><br>Found this great write up.....<br><br>

I'm not sure I understand lowering just the front of the car. When I originally lowered my 93lx, it cost about $1000. I put on H&R Springs and 5 way Tokico shocks, along with caster camber plates.

Ya..that was the crux of what I can remember from the one article. It looks like that is an often quoted segment of information. A dude posted just about the same thing on 01-04-02:<br><br><a href=http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24431 target=new>http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24431</a><br>\ <br>The part that stuck in my mind was the fact that you actually increase the rate of the spring..when you shorten it. <br><br>This is a bad thing on a diaphragm spring in a CV Carb on a Harley, but not so bad on the rear springs in an automobile (providing it isn't run to the excess).<br><br>Then again..technically you are correct in that adjustable LCA are the best all around route..when money is no object. However, for my poor old daily driven '91 GT..the 'dead coil' on the rear springs are as good as gone... &lt;g&gt;

Yech, I bought my car lowered and found out the previous owner had cut my factory springs. The car ran very hard and every bump shook me up. Hit a speed bump and I consistantly bottomed out and had my tail bone shoved to the back of my head! Eventually I'm looking at Eibachs and Tokicos, but for now I am just happy being back to Ford stock when I got a good deal on some Roush/Saleen stock take offs.<br><br>Mike<br>www.technilube.com