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111
post Nov 28 2002, 08:58 PM
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ill have pics of the custom fab intake i have on my car...its maf sensor down, not the prettiest thing in the world, but i didnt pay anything for it, its twice as strong as a normal intake, mounts sturdier and is more thermal, and still gives me the benefits of a basic cold air intake.....ill also try to get pics of the wing i now have on my car etc.  i wont post them, but ill send them out whenever i get them if u wanna see them.  ill let u know when i get them just let me know then if u want them or not..
jeremy
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111
post Dec 1 2002, 07:16 AM
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hello i'm also searching for a cold air intake for the Probe. The problem is that i'm living in Belgium and it's very difficult to find any parts for the car.. so self made is the answer. Would you send me the pictures over from the intake? thanks
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post Dec 1 2002, 08:34 PM
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def. send some pics. i recently took my CAI out. It was a little below the splash guard and it was very clogged...no wonder i felt like i was loosing power. So i'll probably do some modding to the mod and hook it back up. right now i have the stock system on it which isn't too bad...draws cold air from behind the bumper so it's aight.
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post Dec 1 2002, 08:36 PM
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oh yeah. I just replaced my EGR tube. If you ever have to do that...have fun. A word of advise is to take off the four bolts on the metal block that bolts into the engine block thats right next to the tube - you'll see it when you do it. I'm still getting a pesky CEL light. I thought putting the stock intake and fixing the egr tube would do it but nope. I think it my have something to do with the clutch. The idle usual drops when i push the clutch in. I'll probably head over the Autozone to get a diagnoses.
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post Dec 1 2002, 04:39 PM
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i need to get some film first, but my cold air from the maf sensor goes down at about a 60 degree or so angle towards the fan and sits about 4 inches above the spash guard to prevent to much road grime from getting into it while still allowing for cold air to enter...works pretty well. thats it for now. peace
jeremy
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post Dec 1 2002, 04:44 PM
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do you have any problems with running rough,misfire, etc etc? does it idle smooth or rough? did you ever consider that, if it runs rough, maybe a sensor, or a tune up may be in order? maybe look deeper than that if they dont work, possible bad throttle body which can cause coolant to leak into the intake manifold and into the cylinders causing it to run rough etc etc etc....maybe gas in the tank? maybe a shot head gasket (pressure check the cylinders) theres a bunch of ideas.  good luck in your diagnosis...ps.s...never, ever, ever go to autozone for more than cleaning stuff, touch up paint, batteries, etc etc.  dont spend alot of money there for cheap CRAP.  just go through stuff yourself, autozone sells junk...i had a 86 mustang lx with a 2.3L 4 banger that put out 88 CRANK HORSEPOWER, which is horrible...but they sold me a clutch that was totally fried ( every rivet was broke out of the disc) after only 10k miles.  they sell crap...lol.  for real, just DIY.
later on
jeremy
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post Dec 1 2002, 10:01 PM
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I've never had any problems with it misfiring or running rough. It usually idle's perfect when its cold but once it warms up it idle rough most of the time. It will drop to 500 then go back up, then drop again, while everynow and then (maybe twice a week) it will cut off on me. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but my clutch peddel looses pressure a lot and does not return all the way. It will get to the beginning of the pressure point and then stop when its coming back up. I've tried bleeding it three times but it has not worked. i'm thinking that the spring might be going bad. Any suggestions on that? When it doesn't stick, i can tell that the pedel has more pressure in it. I've recently added magnecore kv85 wires and the plugs have been in for about 12,000 miles. When it dies down the battery guage drops...don't know if this indicates anything or not. I'm positive its not the head gasket and i run 93 octange. I've been wanting to clean the IAT but there is a screw that i have no idea what kind of screw driver i need to unscrew it. i ask a friend who has basicly every tool made but he didn't have it nor seen it before. I dont buy much from autozone. I didn't even know they sold clutches. I recently had my engine rebuilt 12,000 miles ago, maybe the guy didn't get something right.
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post Dec 1 2002, 10:14 PM
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> I've been wanting to clean the IAT but there is a screw that i have no idea what kind > of screw driver i need to unscrew it. i ask a friend who has basicly every tool made > but he didn't have it nor seen it before. I believe the screw you're referring to is a Torx T-25. I've got one in my computer toolkit, but I've never tried cleaning the IACBV. Check this page for more info on cleaning the IAC bypass valve: http://www.geocities.com/adamk01452/IAC_Clean.html Hope that helps you or someone else. I'm contemplating performing this procedure myself soon. MULTI 97GL
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post Dec 1 2002, 05:16 PM
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mine does the same thing...replacing the battery helped a tiny bit, my alternator is good, i replaced my throttle body...i know the valve cover gasket is shot but thats got nothin to do with it.  i either have a bad head gasket ( doubtful at best there) water in the gas tank or a bad sensor.  getting a diagnostic run on it as soon as i save enough for inspection...hopefully its just a lil water in the tank and a 02 sensor or somthin. 
jeremy
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post Dec 1 2002, 11:59 PM
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Whats up you guys?My car has been doing the same thing but it has never died on me. The only code that showed up on the diagnostic test was my O2 sensors but I havent replaced them yet.My friend worked at ford and we checked and that was the only problem.The only time they work right if theyre bad is at wide open throttle.The OEM O2 sensors cost anywhere from $150 to $250 or more but the universal ones are no more than $40. Ive been told that they are the same thing minus the plug in wiring harness you just have to splice it.Im doing mine in a week or so Ill let you guys know how it works out.
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post Dec 2 2002, 06:52 AM
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I've discussed my issues with O2 sensor codes in the past, so I'll summarize by saying this: If you're getting an O2 sensor CEL, clean your MAF. It takes 20 minutes and costs nothing assuming you already have carb cleaner. The procedure is here: http://www.geocities.com/adamk01452/MAF2.html Another thing I'll mention: I tried 3 non-OEM O2 sensors from Autozone, O'reilly's, and NAPA respectively, and none matched up with my car's harness. A universal would probably be the way to go if you can get the right size. If you have a friend who works at Ford you might just have him buy you an OEM one. That's what I finally ended up doing, but again it didn't matter because my CEL for the O2 sensor was not actually the O2 sensor but the MAF. Trying cleaning the carbon off your MAF filament: it may clear up your problem. MULTI 97GL
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post Dec 2 2002, 10:02 AM
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i have recenlty cleaned it. How much are the OEM o2 censors?
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post Dec 2 2002, 10:04 AM
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nevermind about the price question :)
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