I reckon the pumps are good for about 60K, not much more. Don't drive with low fuel because it shortens the pump life. Dropping the tank is no big deal. There are two steel retaining straps. When you have the tank off check it very carefully for leaks. I have had TWO tanks split on me. Be especially careful when removing and replacing the fuel level parts. Easy to mess it up and have a bad fuel gauge as a result. Clive www.citiria.com

Wasn't the pump, retested and it throws fuel fine (looked in the testing section of the Ford TSB) but after replacement of the coil and ignition control module (right fender under the hood on the aluminum heat sink) still nothing. Have to check more into this before I dump more money into un-needed parts. I'm only out $65 right now so not too bad. Weird that it gave no advance notice - just died while doing 65 mph and won't start or even act like it is - time to delve into the distributor and see if maybe the rotor broke or something similar. > >

Seems no spark now that I'm getting deeper into it, have replaced the coil and control module, wondering if the distributor mounted pickup module might have died. Are there fusible links, fuses or relays that could affect the lack of spark? This computer controlled stuff is great when it works, sucks when you have to troubleshoot. > >

Most of the time on Fords when the module goes bad it is caused by a bad pickup inside the distributor, so if you changed the module without changing the pickup you may have just fried that new module.and might I suggest that you buy a new rebuild distributor instead of the module, pickup and distributor drive gear that you'll probably break like I did when trying to diassemble the distributor to replace the pickup. For the cost of these three items you can have a new rebuilt distributor that includes all three items.

Well with the cap off and turning the starter - no spin of the rotor. I can take the clutch-like part under the rotor that the tab of the rotor engages on and get it to sping 1/2 or so revolution then it's free again. This type distributor is new to me and I either have a bad engagement unit (whatever it is, haven't checked the TSP yet for an exploded view and nomenclature, or a whole distributor (God I hope not - tight enough changing the cap in there!) > >

Well the exploded view of the TSP shows a rotary vane above the pickup is what normally turns the rotor and isn't - looks like the flange on the shaft assy is what it attaches to - time to yank the distributor and see what is amiss - hope it's not something the drives the distributor... > >

VOILA! A little more digging - the teeth of the drive on the bottom of the shaft of the distro are chewed off in about 5 teeth - not sure why but it turning part of a turn means the drive in the engine is good. Now to find a gear rather than a $90 rebuilt assembly. > >

Well Advance has it, Dorman #90453 at $32 (wow!) but cross referencing to Napa's site they have the Dorman item at $19... a bit less expensive. Rock Auto has it but then overpriced UPS (I work for them, nothing is done cheaply) shipping for a 3 oz gear brings it near the Advance price. Autozone doesn't carry it. The wear on all the teeth to a thin blade has me wondering if this isn't why the wavering fuel mileage lately. Well the PITA job of timing the re-installed distributor is ahead of me.
Most of the time on Fords when the module goes bad it is caused by a bad
pickup inside the distributor, so if you changed the module without
changing the pickup you may have just fried that new module.and might I
suggest that you buy a new rebuild distributor instead of the module,
pickup and distributor drive gear that you'll probably break like I did
when trying to diassemble the distributor to replace the pickup. For the
cost of these three items you can have a new rebuilt distributor that
includes all three items.

That's why I suggested buying a whole distributor. When I did mine I also found out that the gear on the distributor is a very tight press fit. Even slightly heating the gear only allowed me to get the gear on the shaft but not lined up with the retaining pin hole before it cooled and shrunk so tight I could not move it with out damaging it again, I broke the original trying to get it off. That's when I went with buying the rebuilt distributor.

I've done flywheel ring gears that are just as tight - sweat fitted more or less. You freeze the inner part and heat the outer and do the fit very quick. If I can't fit it I'm out $20 but it's worth the shot rather than another $70 or more for a rebuilt unit and they don't even come with a pickup. Machinst type work I'm very good at it's just troublshooting systems I'm not familiar with, like this. I did learn a lot about the system involved and with info from you and others on the list it helped me to get things isolated... > >

Looking at the Ford TSP where they call the pickup a stator, you need an arbor press for the gear...seems to replace the pickup the shaft has to come out because of the mounted flange that holds the vane - your suggestion of a whole distributor might be the best option after all and the arbor press means the reason why heat didn't work for you. I used to have access to a press when I had an auto hobby shop down the street on AF bases but not one of those tools I use enough to justify in my home shop. Thanks for the heads up. > >