Thank you to all who responded. Actually I got lucky. Didn't drive at all over the weekend. Added fluid this morning, transmission went into gear fine. Drove car to nearby reputable transmission shop...it shifted perfectly. Transmission was leaking at the pan gasket and the manual lever seal. The shop replaced those, changed fluid and filter, and I think I will be OK. No metal shavings were found in the fluid or pan. Cost: $200. Still have to fix the power steering pump though....have yet to find exactly where it's leaking. Here's another question for you out there: Has anyone had a good (or bad) experience changing to synthetic motor oil? I used Motorcraft 5w-30 the whole car's life until the last oil change, when I changed it to Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30. Now I have leaky valve cover gaskets. Changed to Mobil 1 in my other car and that one's leaking like a sieve (although it had leaks before). I also read on another group forum that changing to synthetic oil in an older car can break loose carbon in the engine and cause it to clog up filters, oil pump, etc that could cause early engine failure, especially if you're going long change intervals. Any thoughts? -AC > Message: 2 >

Glad you got her running with minimal cost. As for the synthetic - thats like holy war or religion. You'll start a big debate on that (at least it has on other forums I keep up with). Some guys swear by it, others stay away. Personally I'm not that convinced and have chosen to stick with quality dino oil and change regularly. It's cheaper and has worked fine for as long as I've kept any of my cars or trucks. And I hang onto them for 150K usually. Beyond there, I doubt it will add much to resale value, and unless you plan to keep it for 200K or more - why pay more? I get tired enough of 'em after 120000 to 150000 miles. Nothing I've owned is that much of a keeper. I'd say if you're gonna switch, do it relatively early. I wouldn't switch over a high mileage vehicle. Just my 2cents. > >

Not to debate the issue of synthetics, but I do hope this provides some enlightenment. In the first place, an ICE (internal combustion engine) will never generate the temperatures for which synthetic oils were designed and/or were developed for. You really don't need synthetic oil in an ICE but of course, you can use it. Yes it's slippier (lower heat & better operating efficiency) but the main drawback is that its film is also inherently thinner than a counterpart mineral oil with comparative "weight". When you use synthetic oil in an ICE that was aclimatized to mineral oil from the get-go, there could be a greater tendency for the motor to use it up because it will leak through the rings. Mineral oils also have a tendency to cause seals used in ICEs to expand/swell and thus do what they're supposed to, but synthetics do not have this characteristic. (Reason why you now see "blended synthetics" in the market.) Remember also that synthetics were originally designed for turbines that need to be extremely well balanced. Not for reciprocating ICEs where the inherent compression load on the oil film at the journals during power strokes can be very high. Kit

Kit- Interesting explanation. I've never heard that angle on it. Basically what I've heard is yes, it can reduce engine wear, but use it from the get-go, not after you've got a lot of miles on it already. > >

Thank you for the correction. Yes, I have some recollection of picking up from somewhere that synthetics are NOT advised on brand new motors as it hampers the break-in period..., or, are we by chance both referring to that Teflon additive thing? I think I'm having a senior moment here.

I have heard the same thing about not using synthetic during break in......but tell me why BMW's, Corvettes and other cars roll off the assembly line with synthetics in their crankcases?  I used to own a 2001.5 VW Passat (Audi engine 1.8T), and I have heard they use a break in additive from the factory.  It's all too confusing with no definitive answer either way.  What I can tell you is stay away from Pennzoil and Quaker State oils.  I have heard so many stories of people religiously using them and having sludge issues.  All you can do is use a quality oil and change per manufacturers specs.