As some of you may know, I had originally planned to have F-Max, in CA, fabricate a turbo manifold for my car, but since I am in Texas, that presents a bit of an inconvenience. A new shop opened up here in Houston, but unfortunately they did not do custom "one off" projects, strictly productions kits only. Anyway they did highly recommend a place in San Antonio, since there is no one in Houston. The shop was call Bell Engineering, and to my surprise, the owner was Corky Bell, the writer of "Maximum Boost". Well, I called him, and talked to him for awhile regarding my project. He was more than willing to build me a manifold. The only issue was the cost. They charge me by the time they spend, and he said it could take 6 hours or it might take 16 hours. At a cost of $50/hr, this could result in a manifold costing from $300 to $800. $300 to $500, while still expensive, is reasonable compared to the competition, but $800!!! I am currently trying to research the quality of there work. They certainly are conveniently located, at least compared with F-Max. In fact I wont have to wait until the end of the year for some vacation time to visit them. I will let ya'll know how things "pan" out. Enjoy, Bryan

I don't believe there is any "formula" for figuring when a turbo will "engage", it just comes down to experience, and physics. How much lag you have is dependant on many things besides the turbo too. Diameter of intake plumbing, intercooler volume, length of intake plumbing, all this volume must be pressurised before you can see boost. That is why you dont want to run 3" compressor side plumping, unless you were planning on a 500 hp drag car or something wild. As for the turbo is self, I would start with the compressor map and find one suitable for your goals. I am not sure what your goals are, but mine are to first double engine output with stock internals. Based information I have seen from other cars, I am hoping this can be achieved with about 10 psi boost, or in the neighborhood. So I chose a compressor map which was very effiecient at 10 psi, for air flow requirements for our engine from mid to high rpm loads. Note that there is a ton of assumptions for calculating the air flow at various rpm's, so these calcs are only estimates. I also would like to squeeze 300 horses out of this motor once internals have been upgraded, so I also looked for a map that would be efficcient for about 15 to 18 pounds of boost. The T04E 46 trim map appeared suitable for both of my goals. One thing to note though is anything below 10 psi and this particular compressor will be working outside its "sweetspot" Once a compressor housing is chosen then you can taylor the turbine wheel and housing to tweak the reponse of your turbo. Recommended turbine housings for our 2.0L engines is the .48 A/R (Area/Radius Ratio) and the .63 A/R. Larger A/R ratio housings will allow more flow with less pressure loss, which means less manifold backpressure, but also results in a less responsive turbo. Turbine sections are also tweaked by your selection of turbine wheel. Turbonectics offers three, well actually now its four because they just added a new one, but they offer four different stages of turbine wheels. Stage one is suitable for a low boost street application. Above that consider stage two or three. Stage four is for race engines and would probably be terrible unless you were running 25 psi of boost. Similar to the housings, higher stage turbine wheels are less responsive but reduce manifold back pressure by allowing more flow. I hope that helps, Enjoy, Bryan Pendleton http://members.tripod.com/~bryan_pendleton/indexp.html >

yea try one of these sites  probe mods  AutoWorldAccessories.com - Auto Accessories, Car Parts, Auto Parts, Buying, Car  https://www.carparts.com/parts/final.asp?reflink=0-0-0-0-0&outputtype=one   OBX Racing Sports / Nippon Racing  HKS Intake System  may not have what your looking for ( i haven't been to these sites in a while)

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